Through Dalmatia

Have I been to Bosnia and Herzegovina? Though I have only cycled 10 kilometres in Bosnia and Herzegovina, I have also slept two nights in that country and had a meaningful conversation with a Bosniak and a less meaningful conversation with the cashier of the supermarket. So I think it counts, but I still find it awkward to say I have travelled in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Geographically, Neum lies in the country Bosnia and Herzegovina, but it is not in Bosnia. It is in Herzegovina. Logically, I have been to Bosnia or Herzegovina, but that’s not a country.

People had warned me of  the Adriatic Highway,  but it was not a bad road and the traffic wasn’t worse than it was in Italy. What I liked was that it wasn’t very steep. That meant I didn’t have to brake during the descent as I often had to do in Italy, but could make full use of my built up momentum.

Roadside selfie

Roadside selfie

Accidental sunset

Accidental sunset.

Dubrovnik has an interesting history, but these days the people are mainly occupied in stuffing tourists with seafood and selling them expensive cold drinks. There was nothing authentic left of the city life and it felt much like wandering through an open air museum.

In the Assumption  Cathedral I was interested in the museum where several showcases were filled with what seemed different parts of mediëval plate armour. They were the reliquaries which contained the holy remains of the corresponding body parts of saints. Amongst them were an arm and a leg of Saint Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik, and a silver box which stored nothing less than a diaper of the Infant Jesus. Now that September has come, most young families with children have gone home, so I shared the cathedral with the nearly dead gaping at the Child Jesus’ nappy…

The traffic on the Adriatic Highway is at its worst around Dubrovnik, with some hairy parts where the road is particularly narrow with crash barriers on the cliffside.

In the evening I walked back to the campsite from the village where I had bought some groceries. At the side of the road I picked some ripe figs. Because I am tall it was easy to find some good pickings , but the lower reaches were empty. Figs must be picked when ripe because they don’t ripen once picked. A lot of people must have picked half ripe figs, because if they wait too long, someone else might have taken them. It’s a nice example of the Tragedy of the Commons, an interesting phenomenon if you are interested in Behavioural Economics…

My next post will be from Montenegro.


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